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February 21, 2025
Sublime Rambling
English Epistle #8
By Vicki L. George
The Bandera Prophet
English Epistle #8
Jan. 31, 1998
We decided to go pretty straight to Okehampton to use as our base for exploring the Dartmoor National Park. On the way we saw more and more thatched roof houses and even a couple of thatched roof inns. These roofs are thick and steep and very neatly trimmed so that they look kind of “fat.” What amazed us was that every one had a chimney! And in the evenings and early mornings there was smoke coming from those chimneys. Only the fact that it rains so much saves those roofs from going up in flames.
As we drove through the town of Bideford we crossed a bridge that was built in the 14th century. Twenty-four arches within arches have kept the bridge so sound that it remains in use today as it always has been. We learned that Sir Francis Drake had his ships built here in the 16th century.
In Okehampton we stayed at the Meadowlea B & B. Again, boiler heat which is turned off during the night and restarted before dawn. This is what the British call “central heating” and, by this time, we had become resigned to it. You just have to get the room toasty warm before bedtime and keep the blanket handy to pull up sometime in the middle of the night. And do any bathing, showering, shampooing in the evening while the room is warm!
That evening we walked downtown a little bit and saw St. James church. Its tower was built in the 14th century and is original. There was the 17th century inn, “White Stag.” Just outside of town we saw the ruins of Okehampton castle which was built by the Normans in the 14th century. It was the largest castle in Devon and is mentioned in the Doomesday Book.
There’s a fascinating museum in Okehampton where I learned that the value of the castle lands in 1066 was the equivalent of $5. After the original castle was built William the Conqueror had a survey done in 1089 which was published in the Doomesday Book and listed the value at the equivalent of $10.
I also discovered a little leaflet which mentioned some “local characters.” One was particularly interesting:
“My ladye hath a sable coach,
With horses two and four,
My ladye hath a gaunt bloodhound,
That goeth on before.
My ladye’s coach hath nodding plumes,
The driver hath no head,
My ladye is an ashen white,
As one that long is dead.”
“My ladye” was Lady Howard of Tavistock who had four husbands and a notorious reputation for having murdered them. Because of her wickedness she travels every night from Fitzford in Tavistock to Okehampton Castle Park in the form of a black dog. Her task is to bring away a blade of grass. Some describe the dog accompanying a coach of bones and should anyone meet “My Ladye,” a terrible misfortune will befall them.
I love ghost stories!
The next morning, after doing a load of laundry (don’t you just hate that!), our B & B hostess gave us a map of the park and we decided to take the route she recommended.
As we drove through the town of Bideford we crossed a bridge that was built in the 14th century. Twenty-four arches within arches have kept the bridge so sound that it remains in use today as it always has been. We learned that Sir Francis Drake had his ships built here in the 16th century.
In Okehampton we stayed at the Meadowlea B & B. Again, boiler heat which is turned off during the night and restarted before dawn. This is what the British call “central heating” and, by this time, we had become resigned to it. You just have to get the room toasty warm before bedtime and keep the blanket handy to pull up sometime in the middle of the night. And do any bathing, showering, shampooing in the evening while the room is warm!
That evening we walked downtown a little bit and saw St. James church. Its tower was built in the 14th century and is original. There was the 17th century inn, “White Stag.” Just outside of town we saw the ruins of Okehampton castle which was built by the Normans in the 14th century. It was the largest castle in Devon and is mentioned in the Doomesday Book.
There’s a fascinating museum in Okehampton where I learned that the value of the castle lands in 1066 was the equivalent of $5. After the original castle was built William the Conqueror had a survey done in 1089 which was published in the Doomesday Book and listed the value at the equivalent of $10.
I also discovered a little leaflet which mentioned some “local characters.” One was particularly interesting:
“My ladye hath a sable coach,
With horses two and four,
My ladye hath a gaunt bloodhound,
That goeth on before.
My ladye’s coach hath nodding plumes,
The driver hath no head,
My ladye is an ashen white,
As one that long is dead.”
“My ladye” was Lady Howard of Tavistock who had four husbands and a notorious reputation for having murdered them. Because of her wickedness she travels every night from Fitzford in Tavistock to Okehampton Castle Park in the form of a black dog. Her task is to bring away a blade of grass. Some describe the dog accompanying a coach of bones and should anyone meet “My Ladye,” a terrible misfortune will befall them.
I love ghost stories!
The next morning, after doing a load of laundry (don’t you just hate that!), our B & B hostess gave us a map of the park and we decided to take the route she recommended.